You said that birch is a very soft wood which is incorrect. Birch is a hardwood and rates a 4 out of 5 on the hardness scale. It takes a stain well, is durable, inexpensive, and a good cabinet choice.
- So first confirm the staining process and practice applying your finishing of choice.
- Now if I really wanted to protect a piece of wood as much as possible, I might consider sealing the wood first with CPES .
- A “High gloss” finish just might drive you a bit crazy if you’re thinking about it for a kitchen or dining room, and if you have pets and small children running around.
- You can certainly make your own blend, or you can just use a commercial product like Teak Oil.
- I’m afraid that I left the stain on too thick and applied the hellsman over uncured stain.
- We finally had our floors refinished last summer to try to get them a similar color.
- Oil just takes so long to dry, the results of coloring with that could very well be unpredictable.
- The lacquer can says that I will need about 4 more coats, whereas the oil based urethane says I will need only about three total.
Building up several coats with gloss than finishing up my last coat with semi-gloss. Yes I would definitely sand the baseboard lightly with 180 grit paper before finishing. And since you are trying to bond the baseboard to tile, I would probably use construction adhesive like liquid nails.
I don’t see any reason you couldn’t top coat the deck with a good marine varnish. Something like Epifanes Marine Varnish would work nicely. In general, I tend to think the oil-based finishes still have a durability advantage over water-based.
Octagon Picnic Table With Open Seats
To me, a surface sanded to 180 doesn’t “look” any different than one that’s been sanded to 220. And once its coated with finish, its “look” is really all that affects the final finish. Thank you Marc for a great website, It’s very informative.
Will the spar urethane adhere well to the Wood Classics Fast-Drying Sanding Sealer? I read one account on the internet advising not to use sanding sealer with polyurethane. I may return the Helmsman spar-urethane and get Epifanes after reading you blog. The finished effect of the polyurethane is the next consideration. Water-based polyurethane does not provide the same kind of dark shiny glow that you get from oil-based products.
Food Safe Wood Finishes
The author saying sanding for better adhesion is a myth and sanding doesn’t serve a purpose is off base with part of his statement. Use a sandpaper grit that removes the flaws efficiently without creating deeper scratches than necessary. I almost always sand with #320 or #400 grit, regular or “P” grade. There have to be big flaws in the surface to require sanding with coarser grits. Not only is this a tricky procedure that will lead to sagging if you aren’t careful to keep the finish thin on the surface , but the procedure doesn’t make any sense.
Unfortunately Laura, you are discovering one of the drawbacks to using a polyurethane product. Yes its durable, but its not easily repairable. Think of each layer like a sheet of plastic wrap. And if there is a wrinkle or flaw in the current layer, and you put another coat on top of it, the old flaw will still telegraph through to the top layer.
Lowes used to carry it and they no longer carry in stores but online. —They carry Rustoleum Ultimate and I use it for all my wood staining and many other things are well. It can work miracles for reviving old furniture without having to strip and sand. Note that going darker produces a better result than going lighter. I am working on building a drawer with fresh wood and like the original poster had to leave quickly before wiping excess stain off the drawer facing. Is using mineral spirits the only option left?
— jennifer (@jenn1662) August 15, 2013
I brushed it on with a good quality natural-bristled brush. I didn’t want a very deep color, so I wiped it off with a clean cloth almost immediately after I brushed it on. I just wanted the stain to act as a base and to tone down the yellow color of the wood. You might find a polyurethane as a viable polycrylic alternative for a shiny look on your wood. When comparing polycrylic vs. polyurethane keep in mind the benefits of polyurethane. Polyurethane is a liquid-based plastic that dries on both wood and oil surfaces.
Sanding Between Polyurethane Coats
I recommend applying the topcoat with a Purdy brush for a smooth, even finish. I always apply 3 coats, sanding in between with 400 grit sandpaper. If the surface you are finishing is relatively “flat” use a foam brush.
And you can certainly use turpentine to thin but mineral spirits, naptha, and paint thinner will also work just fine. Pretty much all oil-based varnishes are compatible. They are all pretty similar chemically speaking.
But I don’t necessarily agree that you can’t apply poly over lacquer. Well I try not to mix finish types when possible. And in this situation, I’m not sure what the reason is for using lacquer.
But if you notice it was completely dry to the touch within 24 hours, then you’re probably good there. I get it that I should use a cloth to apply the stain but I’m unsure how to apply the spar urethane. I expect that spar urethane out of the can is too thick for using a cloth. These problems seem overlooked by most finishing instructions. There will almost always be little dust nibs in the final coat. Even if we talk all the standard precautions, its still going to happen.
Cabinets see substantial moisture and use, so it would require quite a few coats to ensure adequate protection. However, it’s worth the extra time for a perfect finish. I used brush-on poly for my coffee table and the lid of the blanket chest but decided to go with wipe-on poly for the mountain bookshelf and rustic mirror. Some of that was due to what I had in the garage … some of it was due to how many coats I wanted to apply and the final use of the project. They both provide the same protection, so the significant differences come down to method of application and number of coats.
Take a look at the ingredients on the can or at the MSDS to be sure this is what you’re getting. Water-based finishes don’t atomize as easily as lacquers, especially if the finish is cold. The best spray guns to use are airless and air-assisted airless, especially the latter. If you use a turbine HVLP, the more stages the turbine has the better. First, before you even begin spraying, you should be more diligent than with lacquers to strain the finish. Solid pieces of lacquer falling into the finish from the lip of the can dissolve back into the finish.
I would probably give the surface a good 220 grit sanding prior to applying the finish. Now that’s not a sure thing, but its my best educated guess. If you are being super precautious, you might even consider applying a light coat of dewaxed shellac after the stain and before the topcoat.
If one layer contains a flaw, subsequent layers won’t necessarily hide it. So if you have a problem, you have to sand down far enough to remove the problem area and then re-coat. Personally, I nearly always thin my varnish for wiping. Not necessarily because of any particular drying benefits but because it is simply easier to apply and I get better results. You can certainly thin yours if you feel you need a less viscous mixture.
If you need to dilute, you can use water. But don’t dilute more than maybe 10% or so. If you want a really thick coat, I’d say go for the brush from the beginning. While I suppose one might argue that a 50/50 thinned finish does absorb deeper than a full strength coat, I’d have to imagine the actual impact is negligible. So think about how many coats you want to apply and how fast you want to get it done. And if you’re comfortable with brushing, go with the brush.
Once evenly sanded, it should accept finish evenly. But just in case, I’d first seal the door with diluted finish or dewaxed shellac. From that point, the topcoats should lay down evenly.
I’ve used it for well over a decade, and I’m always pleased with the look and durability of it. So let me break down the pros and cons based on my personal experience for each of these products. I’d love more in-depth stain experiments. The pine to me looked very different from my own experience.
Urethanes are cleaned from brushes using mineral spirits. Purdy makes a metal toothed comb that separates/aligns the bristles to aid in cleaning. And a 500mL can should cover a door easily….maybe two depending on how thick you go with the finish.
Currently thinking should be varnish now or wait till warmer weather. Even under tent the wood surface is very damp. Please advise what to use to condition New exterior mahogany door with prior to staining. I will soon be replacing the front and back door of my cabin at the base of the Cascade mountains in Eastern Washington State, near Leavenworth. It’s a good idea to scratch up the old finish just a bit with some 120 grit sandpaper first though.
If I had to choose, I think I’d pick the Varathane stain because it allows some of the grain to show through with even coverage throughout. There’s a crisp line between the two coats, and nothing pulled off when the tape was removed. This particular India ink is waterproof, so you might be able to get away without a top coat if it’s a piece that won’t get any wear and tear. India ink had the most consistent color over all the different wood species. It produced the blackest black, no matter what the underlying wood is. Two coats made a little bit of a difference, and helps to ensure that you get the same color throughout the board.
If you wish to update the color of your floorboards, you’ll need to do it before you install the poly of your choice. The natural wood floor finish enhances the color and grain of all types of hardwood. A few months ago, I decided to redo the floors in my living room.
Our floors are so beautiful that we often have delivery people tell us how great they are. We find the warmth of the tone looks really great with grey walls and white trim, it kind balances the slight golden/orange cast. But as far as the stain goes, yes, I have been incredibly frustrated with Minwax stain in the past. But really, it’s not so much the stain as it is the wood that I generally use. If you leave any of that stain built up on the surface of the wood, you need to wipe it off or it’ll take a very long time to dry.
Honestly, I would just use a good quality outdoor paint and primer and call it done. Few things protect wood minwax vs varathane better than paint. We usually go to the extent of using a special varnish when we want to use a clear coat.